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founder

Dear Friends,
As rock-climbers, we are always in the process of challenging our limits and that

carries a significant risk with it. Read more...


Associates

allied petzel bjcm
Website: www.safeclimbinginitiative.org   e-mail:info@safeclimbinginitiative.org  Contact: +91 94220 28015

Technical Information

Guide lines followed by SCI for Anchor replacement
UIAA Mountaineering Commission together with the German and Austrian Alpine Clubs have provided some guide lines for anchor replacement (re-bolting) on traditional climbing routes.

Guidelines followed for Anchor replacement of rock climbing routes

  • SCI is rebolting only those routes which are frequently climbed.
  • SCI follows basic principle of rock-climbing routes wherein the character of the route remains intact, for which SCI follows certain rules like-
  • Line of the original route is not altered.
  • Routes and single pitches done ‘clean’ on original route (using nuts, friends, threads etc.) are not rebolted.
  • Routes are not neutralized by additional bolts.
  • Difficulty of the route is not altered through rebolting measures.
  • Aid passages created on the original routes are kept aidable after rebolting.
  • Amount of permanent protection in the rebolted route is less than the original number of placements. For example, several regular pitons or bolts are replaced by single bolt.

These guidelines SCI strictly follows while executing the anchor replacement.


Bolts Used By SCI
  • While doing the anchor replacement SCI uses the MGB (Mahatma Gandhi Bolts) made up of V2A steel.
  • MGBs are newer and superior bolts made of material tested for their breaking strength of above 3000kg.
  • These bolts are 18mm wide and 90mm long compared to tiny little bolts which are currently in use.
  • Life of these bolts is predicted to be approx. 50 yrs.
  • Using the Fischer Chemical hardener, bolts could be fixed in merely 10 minutes in the rock.

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